BOFANDAGI

BOFANDAGI, julohi, julohagi, tarzi sunnatii az resmon boftani mato, karbos va amsoli inho dar dastgohi Bofandagi, ki tavassuti bofanda surat megirad. Dar Bofandagi toru pudro ba yakdigar vorid karda, onhoro bo ham mebofand. Dar Bofandagi du dastai rishtaho (abreshimi, pashmi, pakhtagi, kanab, jut va gayra)-ro az arzu tul lobaloi hamdigar guzaronida, gireh mezanand. Dar natijai ba hamdigar omekhtani tulu arzi onho va fishurda gashtani toru pudho mato va yo porcha hosil meshavad. Jarayoni Bofandagi az tayyor kardani toru pud, nakhpechoni, tortani, ohordihi, farqkushoi va gayra iborat meboshad. Torho az samti amudi va ufuqi guzashta, porcha yo khud matoi boftaro ba vujud meorand. Nafosati mato ba qutri rishta yo nakh vobasta ast. Bo tagyiri rang, tedodi pudho va naqshi bofta navi rang digar meshavad. Oloti Bofandagi charkh, halloji, dukon, chubhoi makhsus, shona va gayra meboshand.

Bofandagi az qadimtarin hunarhoi sunnati buda, az ahdi neolit inson bo on oshno ast. Misriho, oriyoiho va oshuriho bo in hunar az ogozi tarikh mashgul budand. Hunarmandoni Yunon va Rum niz dar Bofandagi pesh rafta budand. Dar Chin boftani abreshim dar asri 3 to milod ogoz yofta bud. Dar Osiyoi Miyona va Eroni boston Bofandagi dar akhdi qadim shuru shuda, yake az peshahoi sunnatii mardumi oriyoi ba hisob meraft. Dar ahdi Sosoniyon boftani matohoi benaqsh mamul bud. Dar asrhoi miyona Bofandagi inkishof yofta, navhoi gunoguni mato va porchahoi munaqqash paydo shudand, ki bo uslubu shevahoi gunogun bofta meshudand. Faoliyati korgohhoi Bofandagi chunon tavsea paydo kar­dand, ki dar onho ham matovu porchahoi nafisu durushti nakhiyu katoni, ham porchahoi zarboftu katibador, ham navhoi gunoguni farsh va gayra bofta meshudand. Dar Khuroson kor­gohhoi Bofandagi dar shahrhoi Khujand, Bukhoro, Istaravshan, Samar­qand, Marv, Nishopur, Hirot va gayra, dar Eron dar shahrhoi Ray, Gelon, Tabariston, Isfahon, Sheroz va gayra faoliyat doshtand, ki ba boftani matohoi pashmi, abreshimi, alyofi (az nakhi chut), porchahoi taqlidi az Misr bo nomi «dabiqi», porchavu matoho bo toru pudi siminu zarin, inchunin bo tahiyai di­gar navhoi matohoi mavridi niyozi mardum mashgul bu­dand. Dar mulki Fors bofti porchavu matohoi katonii oli bo shevai misri, dar shahri Ray boftani qaboi hoshiyador va rakh-rakh, matohoi dupudi va gayra mamul bud. Qazvin markazi tijorati matoho buda, dar shahri Omul az qadimulayyom baroi zinu bolopushi asp porchahoi makhsus meboftand. Dar Sa­marqand porchahoi simgun, naqshdor, abreshimi istehsol me­kardand. Matoho va farshhoi gunogune, ki dar Khujandu Is­taravshan va Marv bofta meshudand, shuhrati ziyod doshtand. Korgohhoi abreshimbofii shahri Bukhoro ba juz porchahovu ma­tohoi abreshimi karboshoi navi «zandanecha», beqasabhoi gunogun, sanduf, satin va gayraro bo zavqu saliqai mardumi Osiyoi Markazi bofta, dar bozorhoi Sharqu Garb ba furush mebarovardand. Boftani digar navhoi karbos, alocha, chit, suf, qalami, doka dar korgohhoi Bofandagii Osiyoi Miyona ba hukmi anana daromada bud.

Barrasii masalai Bofandagi dar asrhoi miyona dushvor ast, zero nisbatan abreshimbofi az 14-15 nufuzi ziyod paydo kardaast, vale khususiyathoi istehsolii onho chandon sharhu bayon nashudaand. Muhaqqiqon misoli muhimmero iroa namudaand, ki muvofiqi on dar ahdi khalifa Mamun kor­gohhoi Bofandagii mintaqahoi gunogun chunin moliyot ba khazinai khilofat mesuporidaand: Gelon 20 adad joma, Siiston 300 qita matoi navi makhsus, Tabaristonu Nahovand 600 farshi tabaristoni, 200 joma, 300 dastor (salla) Gurgon 1000 qita porchai abreshim, Khuroson 27 000 qitai abreshim va gayra. Az in moliyot malum megardad, ki Bofandagi dar istehsoloti moddii asrhoi miyona maqomi makhsus va yake az joygohhoi namoyon doshtaast.

Mato va porchahoe, ki dar Osiyoi Miyonavu Eron istehsol meshudand, az ruyi khususiyat, naqsh, nafisi, rang va zeboi ba navhoi zerin tabaqabandi shudaand: 1) ma­tohoi bofti ananavii sosoni; 2) porchaho va matohoi khol-kholii nisbatan soda, ki masrafi umumi dorand; 3) matoho va porchahoi naqqoshishudai rakh-rakhi gunogun, ki dar Khuroson navi safedu siyohi on, dar digar mahalho navi yak rakhi pahn bo yak rakhi tarhdor istehsol me­shud; 4) mato va porchahoe, ki bo tarhhoi bargi zinat doda shudaand. In navi matoi guldor bo tarhhoi shabakavi, monandi khonai zanbur buda, bo ranghoi gunogun tahiya meshud; 5) tarhi mato va porchahoi khonachador, ki bo khathoi soda va kholhoi gunogun dar dokhili shabaka oro doda shuda, bazan shabakaho shomili shaklhoi handasi bo naqshi tazayini budand. In naqshho ba naqqoshihoi miniyoturi monand buda, khossi maktabi Bagdod va tarh­hoi bargshakl khossi maktabi movarounnahrii oroishi matovu porchahoi abreshimi va digar matohoi guldori ranga meboshand; 6) matoho, porchaho va farshhoe, ki dar onho aksi giyohho, jonvaron va hatto insonho inikos meshudand. Matohoi abreshimie niz istehsol megardidand, ki katiba doshtand. Avvalin katibae, ki dar mato paydo shud, «Ba orzui saodat va salomat» bud. Minbad katibaho ba shohonu vaziron va afrodi barguzida bakhshi­da shuda, dar porchavu mato naqshi fil, sher, shutur, parandagon va digar jonvaron dar manzara inikos meshu­dand. Dar Ostona (nazdikii Turfon) bostonshinoson matoero paydo kardaand, ki dar on naqshi darakhthoi nahl dar tarhhoi doiravi inikos va ba shevai marsumi sosoni bofta shudaast. On zaminai qirmizi doshta, dar aks darakht­hoi nahl bo ranghoi obi va safed oro doda shudaand. Por­chai mazkur holo dar muzeyi Britaniya nigakhdori meshavad. Matobofii sugdiyon bo hunari porchabofii Eron shevai mushtarak doshtaast, vale abreshimbofii sugdiyon ba tarzi Bofandagii chiniyon nazdiktar budaast.

Nigar niz Sanoati sabuk.

R. Rahmoni, M. Hazratqulov.